Op squatted on the bare planks of the verandah held on stilts over the sea.  Spread newspapers before her were topped with an assortment of plates hilled with chopped vegetables, roots and herbs; a wooden chopping block and knives.  She worked efficiently, chopping, measuring, mixing and tasting, drawing on an array of ingredients around her…oyster, fish and soy sauces, raw sugar, two kinds of chili, coriander, ground black pepper, garlic, fresh lime juice, onions, soy oil, galang, and kaffir lime leaves.  She fed a small brick bucket barbecue, stuffing first strips of newspapers into the maw and then small pieces of charcoal.  When ready, the glowing coals roasted fragrantly-marinated, cross-hatched strips and tentacles of squid, huge prawns in their shells.  Other dishes appeared…yum salad of squid, tomato, onion, cucumber and green beans; green-edged mussels with sautéed garlic steamed in their own juices, with lemon grass, galang and kaffir.